As I drive out of Bangkok, I’m struck again by the utterly glorious Thailand sky. In the big glitzy city, living in a towering hotel or walking amid all the skyrises, you hardly get to see the sky but now I can see a beautiful sunrise, slowly turning from a faint yellow to a burnished orange, turning the early morning inky sky into a brilliant blue. My destination lies only three hours away by road, and I don’t know quite what to make of it.
Hua Hin is somewhat of a secret – hardly anyone I spoke to before leaving had heard of it, leave alone visited – a big feat for a country as wildly popular and touristy as Thailand. Once a favourite beach resort of the Thai kings, today Hua Hin is perhaps well known only in golfing circles. With over 10 reputed golf courses, the Black Mountain Golf Club here is routinely voted as the top golf course in Thailand. Even as I drive in, the LAPG tour is ongoing in this seaside town.
I check into the brand new Avani Hua Hin Resort and settle into my beautiful, spacious, pool villa – two steps outside is the resort’s private beach with the Gulf of Thailand spreading endlessly as far as the eyes can see. The best thing to do in a town like Hua Hin, if you ask me, is… nothing. The biggest draw of this laidback town is the easy vibe of the sun and the sands available at such a short distance of the Thai capital. I make the most of this by enjoying a lot of beach time, chilling at the hotel’s Beach Garden, taking lots of Instagram-worthy photographs of the beautiful scenery. The seascape of Hua Hin is made even prettier, thanks to the Hua Hin Hills in the backdrop.
When I do step out, I am utterly charmed by the quaint railway station in town. Built entirely in wood, this historical landmark was first opened during the reign of King Rama VI, in 1911, and later renovated in 1926. It remains functional to-date since then, and the red and white painted building is definitely the most beautiful railway stations in Thailand, and among the loveliest I have seen anywhere in the world.
King Rama VI loved to travel Hua Hin (and who can blame him). He is responsible for building the most beautiful structures in town, including the absolutely stunning Mrigadayavan Palace, built in 1924. This seaside palace was supposed to be his summer palace, and he did spend three months here in 1924, but unfortunately he died just a year later, in 1925. What he left behind, however, makes for a beautiful half day excursion for modern day visitors. The seaside palace is built entirely in teak, painted golden and affords unforgettable views of the sea. Set in acres of green lawns dotted with majestic tall red silk cotton trees, the palace is not a typical Thai building – with arched, pillared, corridors and an open and airy plan, it reflects a more European sensibility. The reason being, the palace was meant to provide reprieve from oppressive summers and meant to be a breezy place that is easy on the eyes. Plus the architect who built it was Italian!
I spend about an hour strolling across the magnificent lawns and the breezy corridors of the palace, stopping for high tea at one of its pavilions. You can choose from a wide range of exotic teas and get a full platter of sandwiches and cakes to nibble at as you enjoy the stunning sea views at the time of travel Hua Hin . At THB 450, it is surely one of the best meals in town.
Another stop that is worthwhile is the Hua Hin beach – the public beach may be more crowded than your hotel’s private one but it is nowhere near as crushed as other famous Thai beaches. With white sands, stunning blue skies and a silvery sea, the swaying palms here make the already lovely picture quite perfect.
Back at the hotel, I skip Thai cuisine that I’ve been eating regularly and go for a gourmet Italian meal at Brezza, the open air restaurant with live music. I wonder at how Thailand has managed to keep Hua Hin from the world – and for how long. Apart from all the sites that I visited, there is also a wildlife park within two hours of Travel Hua Hin and, of course, a night market. I can’t help thinking that soon the empty stretches of the beaches here will be crowded too… but for now I can enjoy the town’s peace and quiet, and this world-class tiramisu.