Call of the Hills

The cool turquoise waters beside the China Clay Hills make for an extremely photogenic spot, and a lovely place for a tree-shaded picnic
Munira A. Fidai
Many know that Bangladesh is famous for its pottery-making, but how many of you are aware of the place that supplies most of the clay? Situated in Birisiri, Netrokona, the China Clay Hills supplies most of the clay that is used in the famous “maatir haari” or clay pots of Bangladesh. A secluded spot that not many know about, China Matir Pahar (China Clay Hills) are an untouched wonder of Bangladesh. The clay and certain unique chemicals give the water a clear turquoise colour that is very rare in this country, adding to the mysterious beauty of the place.
Although called “pahar”, literally translated as hills or mountains, the clay hills are little more than mounds of clay and trees, surrounding a beautiful pond of blue water, making for a picture-perfect view. This place if ideal for private picnics.
Other notable attractions of Birisiri include the Garo Hills, which is home to the Garo tribal community; Zero Point, the border of India and Bangladesh, and old temples and Zamindar (landlords’) mansions. Because it is not yet a well-known tourist spot, the lack of facilities makes a visit to the clay hills very light on the pocket. The cool clay under the feet and the translucent blue water gives the place an almost spiritual aura. Taking a dip in the pool is possible if one does not mind the slightly bitter taste of the water due to the various chemicals. The water remains cold throughout the summer and is shallow enough for non-swimmers to wade in. In winter, one can cross through the river on foot.

How to reach
This photographer’s dream of a place is, however, logistically quite difficult to get to. The journey in itself is beautiful, albeit a little challenging. There are few ways to go about reaching the spot. There is a direct bus that goes from Mohakhali, Dhaka to Birisiri, Netrokona. From Netrokona, take a motorcycle ride to the clay hills. They may be a bit more expensive, but you are sure to save valuable time. Rickshaws offer a more fun ride, if one has enough time in hand. It is wise to book the rickshaw a night before the trip and ask the rickshaw puller to come to your accommodation spot very early in the morning. The rickshaw ride will not be so smooth so prepare for a bone clattering ride.
However, many believe that the best way to reach the clay hills is by boat. A motorboat costs around 1200tk and gets you close to the hills in just an hour. For someone with more time on their hands and a nature loving heart, a more tranquil and relaxed way to reach the place is to take a row boat. It costs about half the price of a motorboat, offers you 3 hours to enjoy the water and both the boats take you to Ranikhong, close enough to the site to only warrant a short rickshaw ride to complete the journey.
Where to stay
When it comes to accommodation, Netrokona has government guest houses called YMCA and YWCA of passable quality that you can spend a night in for as low as 400tk for two people. The rooms are clean and simple, with no extra amenities except for an attached bathroom, bed and few basic amenities. There is, however, an outfield with barbeque facilities, which is a blessed addition.
There are no materialistic entertainment facilities at the China Matir Pahar. Instead, it is a laid-back and scenic spot that one can enjoy with friends. Simple pleasures and an unforgettable view will make up most of the package that this spot has to offer. As China Matir Pahar gets slowly discovered by adventure/travel enthusiasts, tourists are requested to enjoy this national resource but respect it enough to leave it clean for others to enjoy it as well. After all, hidden gems retain their sheen the longest!